We foodies devour menus the way scholars study texts; the latest fruit of our scrutiny is the happy realization that we're no longer being railroaded by dint of menu headings into ordering an old-fashioned trio of courses. 51 Lincoln (51 Lincoln Street, Newton, 617.965.3100) devotes a whole section of its menu to charming hors d'oeuvres-and-liquor pairings; the possibilities range from scallop ceviche with cilantro vodka to crispy duck mole with strawberry tequila. "Something crunchy in it" is a category unto itself at o ya (9 East Street, Boston, 617.654.9900); though the menu changes daily, the lusciousness of options like chive-oil-touched shrimp tempura with bacon-truffle dipping sauce doesn't. And at Sagra (400 Highland Avenue, Somerville, 617.625.4200), fritture - fried stuff - has a special place on the menu as in the hearts of most red-blooded snackers; we're talking arancini, breaded stuffed olives, and, of course, calamari.
