Though the term "gastropub" has only recently entered our lexicon, we've been witnessing for years now the slow spread of the British-born phenomenon it names. Oddly enough, Brookline remains its epicenter: after all, the suds have never overshadowed the gutsy grub turned out by Matt Murphy's Pub (14 Harvard Street, Brookline, 617.232.0188), the Publick House (1648 Beacon Street, Brookline, 617.277.2880), and the Washington Square Tavern (714 Washington Street, Brookline, 617.232.8989), from flawless cod fritters to moules frîtes to black-bean burgers with sweet potato fries, respectively. But now watering holes that aim to annex culinary integrity to beer craftsmanship are popping up right and left: Deep Ellum (477 Cambridge Street, Allston, 617.787.2337) does its own charcuterie, the Lower Depths Tap Room (476 Comm Ave, Boston, 617.266.6662) anoints its fresh-ground burgers with bacon fat, and the DIY ethos at the Biltmore (1205 Chestnut Street, Newton, 617.527.2550) suffuses a menu laden with housemade tidbits.
