This ain't your grandfather's bathtub gin. Hell, it's not even gin. We've come a long way from moonshine, baby, and small-batch vodkas are excellent proof (wink wink). Distilled in small quantities to ensure premium quality, these are some stellar vodkas. Everyone from local "backyard" distilleries to wineries to big guns such as Stoli are getting into the spirit of small-batch spirits. Eager to start sipping? Head to the vodka lounge at the Good Life (28 Kingston Street, Boston, 617.451.2622) to sample from their excellent selection, including small-batch favorites like Kutskova from Russia, French vodka Jean-Marie XO, Napa Valley anomaly Charbay, or New England darlings Cold River and Triple 8. For a fruity treat, try the Apple Vodka from Nashoba Valley Winery (100 Wattaquadock Hill Road, Bolton, 978.779.5521), the epitome of a small-batch spirit, available only from the winery itself. Teetotalers need not apply.