Food & Drink

by Louisa Kasdon  |  December 11, 2008

  

All about duck

As I looked over the menu at Salts a few weeks ago, it was obvious that I had to order the duck. It was a “festive” occasion, and duck is one of the dishes I associate with celebration. “Ooh, let’s all get the duck!” the four of us chimed. Two ducks arrived, aloft on platter, a courtesy curtsy to us before the server carried them to a small table for carving into four portions of crispy skin and moist meat. In my slightly obsessive way, I began to muse about why I categorize duck as a fancy food. Is it that much more complicated to cook than a chicken? Is its degree of difficulty related to what kind of duck it is —  i.e., is a Long Island duck easier to cook than a Moulard,a Muscovy, or a Pekin? (And what do these names even mean? Do Pekin ducks come from China? Are Muscovies from Moscow?) Duck isn’t an expensive menu item — it’s usually less than the steak or the seafood — but it seems luxurious. Even when it’s scattered on pizza or spooned into ravioli, duck in or on anything implies special-occasion dining. Read More »